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EGYPT travel log (1): dag 1 t/m 4

 

created on wednesday, 17 january 2007 

Today was our fifth day on the bike, from Safaga on the Red Sea towards Luxor where we plan to arrive tomorrow after a short 95k ride. Then a well earned restday to among other things visit the tourist sites.
A lot happened these last five days; actually six because on friday, the day before our departure from Cairo we all got together in the Cataract Hotel.  Friday morning I had arranged for about ten participants an early morning  outing to see the sun rise over Cairo from the back of a camel in between the Gizeh pyramids. Believe me when I tell you that at 6 a.m. January on the back of a camel in the desert is a pretty frigid but worthwhile experience! and back in time in the Hotel for breakfast. Then meeting about 40 people and try to get to know them a bit; it appears to be a varied group, from seemingly very athletic people to quite the opposite; from all over the world; from students to a 64 year old (c'est moi!); with one similarity: all (temporarily) without work!
Saturday, the big day of our tour start, we are up early to pack and load out travelbags on the accompanying trucks. Then under police escort to Gizeh riding our bikes to the pyramids, where a day earlier we had ridden a camel, to the START which after a short speech and a photo session finally happens! The police escorts us over Cairo's turnpikes to the east side of the city wher we find a quieter road to Suez and the first desert camp on our way to the Red Sea.
The next day we pass Suez and then we head south along the Red Sea that we see to the left all the time. On the right is desert, sometimes a sandy plain, then bare, steep and eroded hills, and so we ride on at a good clip helped by a strong back wind and good wide asfalted roads in 4 days to Safaga, a holiday resort also well known for diving. At last, a nice hotel for a good shower, laundry, battery loading, a good sleep in a bed. The previous night sudden gale force winds  blew away a few tents, mine luckily remained in place but fine sand penetrated everything and the noise made for a wakefull sleep.
This tour is described as a Race/Expedition. I had firmly intended to to it as an expedition however, once I'm riding in a peleton and it accelerates I can't help myself but go along and worse, even pitch in: denying ones real nature is not easy. Perhaps I will find the desired state of mind eventually, later in the tour. In short: I have since my race days not ridden so fast thes last 5 days! The third day we had an average of 39,8 k/h over a distance of 134 km.  A benefit is though that with a 8 a/m/ start we get to the next camp between 11 and 12 after which you have long leisurely afternoon to rest. The non racers usually arrive late afternoon. Our route sofar has not been so diverse or interesting to warrent a slower speed: just a lot of sand sofar on this part of Egypt.

  

EGYPT Travel log (2): day 5 t/m 11

Coming from the east and the desert we arrive via Qena in Luxor. From desolation to a busy overpopulated town on the banks of the Nile surrounded by a lush landscape with palm trees and green fields. Daily life bursts with activity on this small strip of fertile land. Although, it strikes us as terribly messy and dirty. Everywhere children who call out to us: "hello, money, money, what's your name, I love you". Some become mischievous and try to put a stick between the spokes in your wheel or throw clumps of dry mud at you.
Our first day off is in Luxor and we spend most of the day on the west-bank: the Valley of the Kings. We stay at the walled Rezeiky Camp on the outskirts of the town. A handy spot with an Internet café frequently visited by tour participants to send and receive e-mail, but dirty as a pig sty. It feels good to have a nice warm shower afterwards.
Leaving Luxor we follow the Nile and the irrigation canals south to Edfu where we will spend the night in a soccer stadium. It was an easy day biking, no race this time, with a lot of stops for picture taking and teahouse visits. All the time a beautiful lush scenery with in the background the sandy hills of the desert. In Edfu I visited the temple just before and during sunset. The Temple of Horus at Edfu is the most completely preserved Egyptian temple. Built on a grand scale the temple dominates this west-bank town. There and back I walk through its streets and wonder about the industriousness, noise and filthiness in which these people live.
Today it's back to business. We race from Edfu to Aswan where we arrive at 11.30 a.m. Over the centuries Aswan, Egypt's southernmost city, has been a garrison town and frontier city. A prosperous marketplace at the crossroads of ancient caravan routes and, more recently, a popular winter resort. A city with a boulevard along the Nile to enjoy the sailing felucca's. Aswan is the final destination in Egypt from here we will take the ferry to Wadi Halfa in Sudan. We get everything ready for the trip to Khartoum and buy some food because on board of the ferry there isn't any. As a farewell to Egypt a dozen of us relax aboard a felucca to enjoy the sunset.
 
Day 10, we are busy with boarding the ferry for our overnight trip to Wadi Halfa. A short 17 km bike trip to the boat and with the help of a policeman reasonably swift on board. The cabins are assigned and then I have to figure out how to get my two large bags through the activities on the shore and the gangway on board. 
Egypt in short: ideal weather for biking, good roads, sunny with temperatures between 10-28 degrees Celsius, desert vistas, a busy, lush and fertile strip on both sides of the Nile, extreme filthiness of the populated areas, friendly and helpful people but quite often to intrusive, the beautiful ancient monuments.
The next few days we will travel over one of the most difficult areas of the tour. It will take us 8 days before we arrive in Khartoum. No roads but sandy soil. It also will be hard to communicate because we cannot reload our batteries.