NAMIBIA travel report: day 104 to 114
- Created on Saturday, 05 May 2007 13:08
- Written by Jan Eisenloeffel
Namibia, officially the Republic of Namibia, is a country in southern Africa on the Atlantic coast. It gained independence on March 21, 1990 from South Africa and Walvis Bay enclave was reintegrated on March 1, 1994. The capital city is Windhoek. Namibia is in size comparable to Pakistan, and after Mongolia, the least densely populated country of the world. The country's landscapes are an ever changing kaleidoscope - changing from the Namib dune sea in the west to teak woodlands and waterways in the northeast. The Namib Desert in the west and the Kalahari in the east account for about 22% of the country's surface.
The highest point in Namibia is the Konigstein (2606m) in the central highlands. A remarkable strip of land in the northeast, known as the Caprivi Strip, is the vestige of a narrow corridor demarcated for the German Empire to access the Zambesi River. The Namibian climate ranges from desert to subtropical and is generally hot and dry; precipitation is sparse and erratic. The cold, north-flowing Benguela current accounts for some of the low precipitation. The economy is very dependent on the extraction and processing of minerals for export. Namibia is one of the top diamond-producing countries of the world, and is also the fifth largest producer of uranium in the world. About half the population depends on agriculture for its livelihood, but the majority of Namibia's people live in pronounced poverty because of large scale unemployment.
Today we have a rest day in AiAis. Well, rest day, there is always so much to do that there is not much time to rest. We're not cycling that's the difference. Behind and legs could somewhat recuperate. From here only 1000km left, 7 days cycling through South-Africa and we will arrive in Cape Town. Day 105 Witvlei to Windhoek. It is cold when I get up, only 11 degrees, so long sleeves under my cycling shirt till lunch. Once again it is a beautiful morning on a good, somewhat hilly road. Today the race finishes after 89km at lunch time. I loose the sprint for third place of Eva with a tire difference. Gunther (a real talent) did see it though. He is well ahead of me in third place in the standings, and his goal is to keep that place in the most leisurely way. He easily could have beaten Eva and I. The 70km ride to Windhoek is quite a bit tougher because of the 400m elevation we have to bridge (max. height 1790m), and the strong headwind. Adrie and Chris keep Eva, David and I the whole stretch out of the wind. It is a miracle that David could keep up with us on this difficult part, if he looses his superfluous kilo's he will be a top cyclist. The last portion to Windhoek we descend 200m to 1550m elevation on which the town lies. We camp at the Arebbush Lodge/Camping where for the next two days I'll share a comfortable room with David. A good bed, spacious shower with a powerful jet of cold and warm water. What a luxury!
I have given my bicycle to Patrick, owner of Cycology Cycles - the first real good cycling shop in Africa, to check a grinding noise especially when I have to go uphill. The whole bracket has to be replaced, the old one can't be repaired anymore because of extreme corrosion and wear and tear. In the shop I meet Mannie after his training ride, a professional who won the TransAlp twice, when I told him about our tour and the EFI he said rather laconic we could better call ourselves FCP's, F(...ing) C(razy) P(eople).
Day 106-107 Two rest days. I'm so used to get up at 5 a.m. that an hour extra is quite a luxury. I learn a lot about rugby because David from South-Africa watches the games of the world finals on TV while I write my story about Botswana and do the chores that have to be done. Have delicious meals and drink a lot, do my stretching exercises, cycle to Windhoek to do some sightseeing. George, somewhat recovered from his fall in the well, joins the group again. For the time being he will be cycling half days.
Day 108 Windhoek to bush camp (direction Kalkrand, before Rehoboth), 152km with an average speed of 35km/hr. I get up at 5 a.m., take a warm shower to get supple, it is only 11 degrees so again long sleeves under my shirt. Patrick of Cycology Cycles quickly fixes my front derailleur because it set too much to the outside and throws the chain over the chain rings. Passed Windhoek again the barren and rugged landscape, upwards to 1765m, then downwards to about 1200m, where we have lunch at 85km. After lunch we continue at a fast pace, eventually only four riders are left: Adrie, Chris, Eva and I. We see the finish flag and jump out of the wheel of Adrie and Chris. Side by side we sprint, loudly cheered on by both men, to the finish. This time I have the stronger legs and get my third victory in the TdA.
Day 109 Bush camp to bush camp (the last one!) at the station of Gibeon. A ride of 176km, average speed 39km/hr. This morning it is really cold, only 9 degrees but beautiful weather, a good road descending 200m over the whole trip. At the start a large peleton, but at lunch time after 80km only Adrie, Chris, Eva and I are left. There is another drink stop at 120km after which Eva is dropped because she can't keep up the pace, and the three of us finish together. At the station is a well kept small graveyard, with tombstones and monuments for the German casualties during the skirmishes of 1905 and 1915.
Day 110 Bush camp Gibeon to Garas Park campsite (also Quiver Tree Camp) about 20 km for Keetmanshoop. With 14 degrees not as cold as the previous day. Today 151km over a flat and good road, barren landscape, and again at the beginning a large group with only a few left at lunchtime. After lunch we climb 200m and I get a flat tire, a little piece of wire is the culprit. Besides the time needed for repair is my tempo alone quite a bit slower than in the group. The tandem team, really joining in today, gain 15 min. on me. For the overall standings not important, but for the last section to Cape Town it is. The Garas Park is quite a peculiar camping, simple but well equipped with strange sculptures along the 500m long, sandy drive through a barren landscape. For the first time I see a Quiver Tree.
Day 111 Garas Park to Canyon Roadhouse on the C37 to AiAis. This morning a more agreeable temperature of 15 degrees, and of course fantastic weather. After the start at 6:30 a.m., 20km downwards to Keetmanshoop (second largest town of Namibia) to the right to the B4, and 54km later left to the D545. Here the asphalt stops and we could for a change ride on dirt roads. These roads are well maintained and sometimes even better than asphalt. Via the Naute Dam to the lunch stop at 85km. Afterwards Eva, the tandem, and I continue together. About 15km farther Adrie, Chris and Gunther pass us, this time we don't join them. We have a reasonable pace together, stop here and there for pictures, and admire the rugged, dry and barren surroundings and vistas. Due to steep ascents before the small town of Holoog I drop Eva and the tandem team. Since they don't try to catch up I decide to ride the last part as fast as possible to regain some time on the tandem team. It worked. Canyon Roadhouse is, again, a well equipped site with a good kitchen, bar, shower etc., where it is nice to camp.
Day 112 Canyon Roadhouse camping via a visit to Fish River Creek Canyon to AiAis Resort Camping. Today no race because of the visit to the canyon, the largest canyon after the Grand Canyon, USA. On the way three gazelles cross the road in front of me. It is a magnificent ride of 112km through a spectacular dry and desert-like landscape with here and there a Quiver Tree. The dirt road surface is smooth, and we have the wind from behind. The AiAis Resort dates from the seventies, but has everything you need. I share a room with George, comfortable and cool with airco while the outside temperature raises to about 40 degrees.
Day 113 AiAis rest day. Sleep a bit longer till I wake up at 6.:38 a.m. My first thought is that normally I would be already on my bicycle, and turn over for another 15 minutes. Then SSS, have breakfast in the restaurant, look at my dusty bike and decide to lubricate only the chain, and then do the laundry (sequence is important to get clean hands again), write these notes, eat again, etc. Indeed it promises to become a real rest day!
Tomorrow we commence with first a time trial, then the border crossing to the last country of this tour, South-Africa. Six days left to Cape Town!
Today we have a rest day in AiAis. Well, rest day, there is always so much to do that there is not much time to rest. We're not cycling that's the difference. Behind and legs could somewhat recuperate. From here only 1000km left, 7 days cycling through South-Africa and we will arrive in Cape Town. Day 105 Witvlei to Windhoek. It is cold when I get up, only 11 degrees, so long sleeves under my cycling shirt till lunch. Once again it is a beautiful morning on a good, somewhat hilly road. Today the race finishes after 89km at lunch time. I loose the sprint for third place of Eva with a tire difference. Gunther (a real talent) did see it though. He is well ahead of me in third place in the standings, and his goal is to keep that place in the most leisurely way. He easily could have beaten Eva and I. The 70km ride to Windhoek is quite a bit tougher because of the 400m elevation we have to bridge (max. height 1790m), and the strong headwind. Adrie and Chris keep Eva, David and I the whole stretch out of the wind. It is a miracle that David could keep up with us on this difficult part, if he looses his superfluous kilo's he will be a top cyclist. The last portion to Windhoek we descend 200m to 1550m elevation on which the town lies. We camp at the Arebbush Lodge/Camping where for the next two days I'll share a comfortable room with David. A good bed, spacious shower with a powerful jet of cold and warm water. What a luxury!
I have given my bicycle to Patrick, owner of Cycology Cycles - the first real good cycling shop in Africa, to check a grinding noise especially when I have to go uphill. The whole bracket has to be replaced, the old one can't be repaired anymore because of extreme corrosion and wear and tear. In the shop I meet Mannie after his training ride, a professional who won the TransAlp twice, when I told him about our tour and the EFI he said rather laconic we could better call ourselves FCP's, F(...ing) C(razy) P(eople).
Day 106-107 Two rest days. I'm so used to get up at 5 a.m. that an hour extra is quite a luxury. I learn a lot about rugby because David from South-Africa watches the games of the world finals on TV while I write my story about Botswana and do the chores that have to be done. Have delicious meals and drink a lot, do my stretching exercises, cycle to Windhoek to do some sightseeing. George, somewhat recovered from his fall in the well, joins the group again. For the time being he will be cycling half days.
Day 108 Windhoek to bush camp (direction Kalkrand, before Rehoboth), 152km with an average speed of 35km/hr. I get up at 5 a.m., take a warm shower to get supple, it is only 11 degrees so again long sleeves under my shirt. Patrick of Cycology Cycles quickly fixes my front derailleur because it set too much to the outside and throws the chain over the chain rings. Passed Windhoek again the barren and rugged landscape, upwards to 1765m, then downwards to about 1200m, where we have lunch at 85km. After lunch we continue at a fast pace, eventually only four riders are left: Adrie, Chris, Eva and I. We see the finish flag and jump out of the wheel of Adrie and Chris. Side by side we sprint, loudly cheered on by both men, to the finish. This time I have the stronger legs and get my third victory in the TdA.
Day 109 Bush camp to bush camp (the last one!) at the station of Gibeon. A ride of 176km, average speed 39km/hr. This morning it is really cold, only 9 degrees but beautiful weather, a good road descending 200m over the whole trip. At the start a large peleton, but at lunch time after 80km only Adrie, Chris, Eva and I are left. There is another drink stop at 120km after which Eva is dropped because she can't keep up the pace, and the three of us finish together. At the station is a well kept small graveyard, with tombstones and monuments for the German casualties during the skirmishes of 1905 and 1915.
Day 110 Bush camp Gibeon to Garas Park campsite (also Quiver Tree Camp) about 20 km for Keetmanshoop. With 14 degrees not as cold as the previous day. Today 151km over a flat and good road, barren landscape, and again at the beginning a large group with only a few left at lunchtime. After lunch we climb 200m and I get a flat tire, a little piece of wire is the culprit. Besides the time needed for repair is my tempo alone quite a bit slower than in the group. The tandem team, really joining in today, gain 15 min. on me. For the overall standings not important, but for the last section to Cape Town it is. The Garas Park is quite a peculiar camping, simple but well equipped with strange sculptures along the 500m long, sandy drive through a barren landscape. For the first time I see a Quiver Tree.
Day 111 Garas Park to Canyon Roadhouse on the C37 to AiAis. This morning a more agreeable temperature of 15 degrees, and of course fantastic weather. After the start at 6:30 a.m., 20km downwards to Keetmanshoop (second largest town of Namibia) to the right to the B4, and 54km later left to the D545. Here the asphalt stops and we could for a change ride on dirt roads. These roads are well maintained and sometimes even better than asphalt. Via the Naute Dam to the lunch stop at 85km. Afterwards Eva, the tandem, and I continue together. About 15km farther Adrie, Chris and Gunther pass us, this time we don't join them. We have a reasonable pace together, stop here and there for pictures, and admire the rugged, dry and barren surroundings and vistas. Due to steep ascents before the small town of Holoog I drop Eva and the tandem team. Since they don't try to catch up I decide to ride the last part as fast as possible to regain some time on the tandem team. It worked. Canyon Roadhouse is, again, a well equipped site with a good kitchen, bar, shower etc., where it is nice to camp.
Day 112 Canyon Roadhouse camping via a visit to Fish River Creek Canyon to AiAis Resort Camping. Today no race because of the visit to the canyon, the largest canyon after the Grand Canyon, USA. On the way three gazelles cross the road in front of me. It is a magnificent ride of 112km through a spectacular dry and desert-like landscape with here and there a Quiver Tree. The dirt road surface is smooth, and we have the wind from behind. The AiAis Resort dates from the seventies, but has everything you need. I share a room with George, comfortable and cool with airco while the outside temperature raises to about 40 degrees.
Day 113 AiAis rest day. Sleep a bit longer till I wake up at 6.:38 a.m. My first thought is that normally I would be already on my bicycle, and turn over for another 15 minutes. Then SSS, have breakfast in the restaurant, look at my dusty bike and decide to lubricate only the chain, and then do the laundry (sequence is important to get clean hands again), write these notes, eat again, etc. Indeed it promises to become a real rest day!
Tomorrow we commence with first a time trial, then the border crossing to the last country of this tour, South-Africa. Six days left to Cape Town!